Amy
Greenfield vividly describes the desires of European consumers to own clothing
and other items that were dyed in brilliant red. The textile industry was Europe’s primary
industry at the time of Europe’s first contact with Central and South America. There was much money to be made by selling luxury
textiles to Europe’s wealthy consumers.
Greenfield describes the secrecy that was essential to the guilds that controlled
the dyeing of textiles. Cities like
Lucca, Florence, and Venice prospered when their weavers and dyers were
successful. The fierce competition on
the part of the textile guilds suggests that the number of producers may have been
capable of a supply of textiles greater than the demand for these luxury goods. Europe’s population did increase from 1492 to
1892, but it is doubtful that the number of wealthy people in relation to
workers and other common people changed significantly during much of that
period. Before the industrial revolution
we can imagine that textile workers competed with one another for customers.
The farmers
who raised cochineal insects in Oaxaca and nearby areas had been doing so for
hundreds if not thousands of years. Over
a long period of time they bred cochineal insects to be twice the size of wild
cochineal with a particularly vibrant and long lasting color. The advantages produced by careful breeding
came with a cost, for domesticated cochineal was not as hardy as wild cochineal. Farmers had to carefully protect their
insects from rainfall and cold weather before the insects could be removed from
the nopal cactus where they lived and bred. The farmers who raised these insects generally
worked on their own small farms where they carefully and patiently tended their
insects. It was typical to have two or
three harvests per year, and it took 70,000 insects to make a pound of cochineal. After silver, cochineal became the most
valuable commodity sent to Spain.
When the
Spanish first saw the large markets of Tenochtitlan they saw beautiful red
fabrics, red painted feathers, pottery with red designs, and red as a cosmetic
on people. There was extensive commercial
activity related to cochineal, and for the Indians who raised the insects cochineal
was an important source of income. The Aztec
imperial institution collected large amounts of cochineal in tribute
payments. After the Spanish took control
of Mexico they continued the collection of tribute based upon formulas worked
out by the Aztec bureaucracy. Despite
the trade value of cochineal, the new Spanish rulers were generally not
interested in cochineal. Encomenderos were
eager to gain wealth quickly. It was
unclear how long they would be able to hold on to their encomienda land. As the population of Indians decreased
because of the impact of disease, tribute payments seemed less valuable then
ranching focused on Spanish crops or on new ventures to secure silver. The Spanish men who went to Mexico were
looking for respectability and status as well as wealth. The cochineal model was a very small enterprise
that required patience and investment in time, and it did not fit the model of
large estates and exploitative labor held by the conquistadors.
If
conquistadors could not appreciate the value of cochineal, Charles V and his
son Philip II did. Merchants from Spain
also recognized that money was to be made in cochineal, and they came to
Mexico, established relationships with local village officials, and provided
them with credit. The officials, many of
whom were not regularly paid, welcomed the credit and made some of it available
to local cochineal farmers. The Spanish
merchants also made connections with the trans-Atlantic traders that took the
cochineal to Spain. The Spanish
government continually tried to control the activity of the merchants, but the
determination of the merchants and the distance from Spain limited the
government’s ability to collect even more money than the royal fifth. Spanish merchants did protect Spain’s
monopoly on cochineal. English and Dutch
pirates were able to occasionally capture Spanish ships, an enormous treasure
when it occurred, and they were able to purchase cochineal from French merchants.
Great effort
was spent by various people to secretly remove cochineal from Mexico and grow
it in other locations. It wasn’t until
the nineteenth century that cochineal estates were established elsewhere. Java proved to be a failure in part because the
Dutch system of forced labor was so brutal that the careful attention required
by those who tended cochineal was impossible, and because the Dutch public when
they learned about the brutality complained to their government. The Canary Islands became a major producer of
cochineal after a fungus destroyed the vineyards that had been the basis of the
islands’ economy. Rising production
coincided with rising demand related to increases in population and increases
in per capita income in Europe. The
final blow to cochineal was the invention of synthetic dies. These dies did not last as long, and possibly
weren’t as beautiful as cochineal, but they were much less expensive than
cochineal. The new dies came in time to
color the clothes that the new consumers, modest and middle class people, could
purchase with their wages. They did not
expect clothes to last for a long time, and they appreciated the variety of consumption
items now within their reach. Cochineal will
never again be the important commodity it once was, but despite this a few farmers
in Oaxaca may be able to raise cochineal for a luxury market that is willing to
pay a premium for natural dies.
Carol, great summary. As I read your last sentence, I thought, moving to Mexico and establishing a cochineal farm might be a good retirement income. As you say the luxury market may have a need for insect produced industry with fair wages. And I would not mind charging a more than fair price.
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